Customizing a Victoria’s Farmhouse, part 2

Changing dollhouse Windows

the 1065 with modified windows

Last week (Customizing a Victoria’s Farmhouse, part 1) we played around with some dollhouse furniture to make an interior plan, and began moving windows to accommodate it.  Here’s what the front cutouts look like with the Picture window moved 1″, and the first-floor window enlarged to standard size.

two new windows in a 1065

position a new window

The new side windows were positioned to fit the kitchen appliances, and to line up on top with the existing side windows. 

Wiring a Victoria’s Farmhouse

There are some wiring steps that I like to do during construction, before things like Dividers, the Gable Roofs, and the Rear Roof get in the way, so these things are only temporarily attached at the moment.

Wiring Layout

While I had the furniture spread around the house, I did a wiring layout diagram.  It is split into the “during construction” runs, and the “after construction” runs.  The Red Lines are the runs I will do now, before finishing construction. 

JM1065 wiring, the peak run

a zig-zag to change directions

The main run starts in the attic and uses the electrification slots down the walls.  A zig-zag  just above the floor aims the tapewire toward the peak, 1/2″ from the edge.  But at the peak, I find that the tapewire won’t be accessable with the Rear Roof in place… I won’t be able to make connections for ceiling lights in the attic.

Building an Attic Ceiling

JM1065 kneewall
Instead of running the tapewire at the peak, I will make an attic ceiling.  I cut some material with the roof angle on both sides to make a ceiling.  While I was at it, I made a kneewall for the front of the attic so I could wire that for outlets, and as a pathway to get tapewire to the Gable Triangle.

JM1065 customized attic

Install the tapewire

Now I can wire the attic.  It’s all done in one piece to minimize connections, up the sidewall, up the attic endwall, across the ceiling, down the opposite attic endwall, and a baseboard run at 3/4″ above the floor to the front corner and across the kneewall (I’ll leave the roll of tapewire attached at the end of the kneewall so I can finish the attic wiring in one piece).

crumpled corner redirects the tapewire

A fold in the corner lets me redirect the tapewire without adding a connection.

tapewire runs before dividers

I have an “up-and-over” run in each floor, a main run up the electrification slots and around the attic, and all three attic triangles are wired.  Now I am ready to install the Dividers, finish the attic, and attach the roofs.

I’ve got work to do!

next: customizing dividers

6 Responses to “Customizing a Victoria’s Farmhouse, part 2”

  1. Pamela Hutzell Says:

    I have this dollhouse and I changed the windows. I made the top window in the attic oval and filled it in; I liked the oval victorian windows you sell and thats what I put in. You need you use your amagination and a little work, and then you have a masterpiece. I put two Victoria’s Farmhouses and made one very large Victorian mansion.

  2. Stacey Says:

    I NEED HELP – I dont understand how you wire the whole house without cutting the wire in half?? I alrady put the walls up. Was that a mistake?

  3. gary_r Says:

    Doing a wiring plan will help you make as few connections as possible, but wherever you have to join taperuns, you overlap the tapewire and connect them together with eyelets. Read ahead in this series to part 5 for more info on making connections. Also, go to the wiring section of the website for more photos of wiring a dollhouse.

  4. Donna Says:

    Pamela, I would love to see how you put together Two Victoria’s farmhouses for your mansion. Do you have pictures you can post?

  5. Becky Says:

    Hi Gary,

    This is my first attempt at wiring and wall papering. I need an explanation of what you mean by adding the knee wall. It looks to me that you put (picture) a ceiling half way across and “adding” another something from the other half. The first picture shows your attic on one side, but the second picture shows it on the other. I am confused. Do you have other pictures or video that might show the roof being assembled? I sure could use the help.

    Thank you,,

  6. gary_r Says:

    Hi Becky
    The Ceiling is in two parts so it can be final-fit in the house – one part all the way to the right, one part all the way to the left, marked and cut where they overlap. I do this with the Attic Partition out until the wiring main loop is installed. The Kneewall is a different piece which is the right length to go from the Attic Endwall to the Divider