Customizing a Victoria’s Farmhouse, part 4

More Wiring:

use the layout stick from the EL-66 to mark for tapewire   Run the tapewire around the attic partition

The Dividers are in, and it’s time for a bit more wiring.  I had left a flap of tapewire un-attached for the rest of the attic baserun, and I can do the part that goes around the attic partition now.  I am still marking 3/4″ using the layout stick in the EL-66.  I haven’t attached the Gable Roof or the Rear Roof yet, so the flap of tape will still be loose past the Attic Partition.

tapewire from the attic ceiling to the basefloor in one run   the stairhole drop connects to the attic ceiling

The Stairhole drop will be a second connection from the first-floor to the attic (redundancy!), and it will power the sconce-run in the bathroom.  This run will go all the way to the ceiling run.  Next I eyelet all the connections in the attic (copper-to-copper and blue-to-blue!).

eyelet the connections using an EL-66   The downstairs wiring can now be completed too

The rest of the downstairs wiring can be done now… everything except the bathroom.  I won’t install those dividers until I have finished the front room.

Wallpaper in the attic:

liner paper covers tapewire before painting   do the painting and sanding before the wallpaper   it's easier to cut the wallpaper for the attic before the roof is on

I have waited to put on the Roofs to make it easy to do this wallpapering.  Without the roofs in the way, cutting and pasting the Attic Triangles is a straight-forward task, but I will leave a flap on the Gable Triangle un-glued for the electrical connection that has to wait for the roofs (photo below-right).  

Wallpaper covers the tapewire enough so that in the finished house the tapewire won’t be noticeable; but  I put “liner-paper” (a wallpaper store product for covering un-even walls) on the walls that will be painted (like the Kneewall above).  The Kneewall and Roof are painted before the wallpaper goes on the triangles.

   apply wallpaper and work out the bubbles as you go   connect the tapewire to the baserun on the Gable Triangle   eyelet connection to the Gable Triangle

Now the Roofs are on, and I can finally attach the last of this flap of tapewire (with the “wrinkle” tucked into the corner of the roof cutout) .  The Gable Triangle corner is a tight spot for making a connection but I was able to drive the eyelets with my EL-66 tool.

Next, I will run the power into the “cellar”, then I can finish the downstairs.

I’ve got work to do

Next: Customizing a Victoria’s Farmhouse, part 5

4 Responses to “Customizing a Victoria’s Farmhouse, part 4”

  1. Kathy Wells Says:

    i thought this website was really neat and so did my daughter. My daughter had just got one of the doll houses it is the Victorian Allison Jr. for Christmas and she just will not stop bugging me about getting it opened so she can see it so I took it out well the pieces and she just was so excited she wanted to work on it right now but we still have to paint and put it all together.

  2. Becky Says:

    Hi Gary,
    So what exactly is the liner paper for? Do we have to have it?

  3. gary_r Says:

    Liner paper covers tapewire to give a smooth surface for painting.
    Scroll down on this page to “finishing over tapewire” for a comparison of Liner Paper and Spackle in the same job. Liner paper is much easier, but one roll is a huge amount compared to a dollhouse, so some folks would rather take the extra time and effort to do the job with spackle instead (I used spackle on this house in part #6).

  4. Becky Says:

    Hi Gary,

    In regards to the liner paper, Is it on the thick side or is it paper thin? I bought some liner paper at home depot, but it was like plastic. I have been unable to find anything like you describe, so I will plaster. Thank you for helping me with this.