How I Created Dollhouse Miniature Stained Glass

I have been busy working on my Collectibles Cabinet Build-Along project and wanted to try something a little different this year.  I’ve always loved the way stained glass looks and some of these creations are just so beautiful.  My hats off to people who make stained glass in real life!

The first step was to find some pictures of stained glass (or just pictures!) and save them to your computer as a JPG.  I used Pinterest for this purpose as I found many more pictures than doing a simple search on the internet.

I then measured my Plexiglas for my dollhouse windows and turned the fractions into a decimal point measurement.  My Plexiglas was 2 1/8 x 4 5/8 so my converted measurement was actually 2.13 x 4.63.  I opened my saved pictures in Photoshop and resized my original picture.  In order to this, I had to unclick the “constrain” button to get the appropriate size.  I found, by doing this, sometimes the image would distort and not be usable for my project.  When I got it just the way I wanted, I saved the newly sized image for future use.

I then had to open a new document using InDesign.  I’m sure there are other options for Photoshop and InDesign but this is what is available to me.  I placed the resized photos in my new document.  I tried to get as many images on the one document so as to not waste any of the clear labels I will be printing my images on.

I used Avery #8865 Clear Full Sheet Labels and printed my document, with the images, onto these full sheet label stickers.  Make sure to print them in color!

I carefully cutout my images so they were the exact size of my Plexiglas.  I removed the protective backing piece and attached these directly to the clear Plexiglas.  Patience is a good trait for this step as I wanted to make sure I didn’t have any air bubbles in my finished windows.  You also want to make sure to not bend the printed picture or rub it too much as the toner will be compromised.  I found this out the hard way, but at least it was with my test product and not the real deal. Stained Glass Jen 1 I know many people choose to paint and create their own stained glass in miniature, which is awesome, except I am not an artist like that and I’d never be satisfied with the outcome.  This was easy to do and I’m so pleased with the finished windows.

I hope you give it a try.  I’m sure you’ll be pleased with your outcome as well.  Please don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions.  If you decide to create your own dollhouse miniature stained glass, I would love to see pictures of your finished product.

Be on the lookout, in the near future, for my actual photos of the Collectibles Cabinet Build-Along Project Stained Glass dollhouse windows.

Thanks for reading my Dollhouse Miniature Stained Glass tutorial!
Mini wishes – Jennifer

4 Responses to “How I Created Dollhouse Miniature Stained Glass”

  1. Marjie O. Says:

    I do my “stained glass” pieces in a similar way but I use clear transparencies to print on and I use spray adhesive to attach them to the plexiglass. I, too, try to print out several on one page to get the most bang for my buck from the transparency material. The additional images may not be used in the current project but maybe something I like for the future.

  2. Mary F. Says:

    This is an awesome technique I will be trying. I do real stained glass, but I have not attempted the miniature windows. Thanks much for the idea.

  3. Mary Beth Mitchell Says:

    I did a faux stained glass window for the front door of my Beachside Bungalow using permanent (Sharpie) markers. Note that permanent ink markers, not water based ink ones, must be used. Water based ink just beads up on the plexiglass, and does not produce a good likeness of stained glass.

    I used Microsoft Word to scale a simple pattern for stained glass to fit the oval window. An important point: I did NOT keep the aspect ratio when I scaled it down, so the image was the exact size of the window. Since my pattern was simple (two roses
    with leaves in an oval ‘frame’), altering the aspect ratio did not make major changes to the overall pattern. A more intricate pattern, ilke a face,
    or highly detailed scene might not have worked with the changed aspect ratio. Experiment a little before coloring, if you’d like to try this.

    After printing the image to plain paper, I taped the plexiglass to it so the oval image exactly fit the oval window. I used a black marker for the leading, carefully tracing the entire image to the plexiglass. Let this dry completely, about 24 hours.

    Next, I carefully colored in each section. To get good coverage of color for each section, I recolored them as needed, ooletting the marker ink dry between coats of color. This has to be done with a “light touch” or the marker will just push around the existing color layer(s).

    Note that colors can be mixed right on the plexiglass surface, and tiny details like the veins in a leaf or shading of color to give depth to the image can be added directly to the plexiglass without guidelines.

    When I as finished coloring the whole pattern, I went back over the outlines to make sure they were crisp & sharp. I then left this to dry for 48 hours, to let the inks dry completely.

    I installed a second piece of plexiglass, to the other side of the door, to protect the design from being scratched.

  4. teri Says:

    I, too, used permanent markers to make stained glass for my Alice’s Homeplace house. I colored the marker on BOTH sides of the plexiglass (I used plastic from store bought cake lids). The only difference is, I used a PILOT gold marker for the lead–it is thick enough to give a raised effect,and it looks like metal or lead. I installed the plexiglas against the existing window for protection.